What Do Cardinals and Popes Wear?
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Representing centuries of ecclesiastical tradition, the religious dress worn by clergy and consecrated religious members of the Roman Catholic Church is rich with symbolism, cultural significance, and historical continuity. From humble robes and habits to ornate liturgical vestments, the garments reflect the hierarchical roles and spiritual responsibilities of the wearers. During a papal conclave, such as the one prompted by the death of Pope Francis, the eye-catching scarlet robes of cardinals and the distinctive white garb of a new pope are on prominent display. Learn about the layers, both literal and symbolic, that underpin the traditional garb of the church’s highest officials.
While certain clothing items, styles, colors, and accessories are used primarily to indicate a position in the church hierarchy, other elements correspond to specific functions and occasions. In general, the pope, bishops (including archbishops and cardinals), and priests have a set of liturgical vestments for celebrating mass; choir dress for official ceremonies, processions, and use by non-celebrants during mass; and ordinary dress for all other times.
Ordinary dress
The ordinary dress for cardinals and the pope (and other ecclesiastical ranks) is very similar. The main difference is the color of the garments and certain small details. The dominant piece of ordinary dress is the cassock, a close-fitting, ankle-length garment with long sleeves. Its history can be traced back to a robe called the caracalla, which was so favored by the Roman emperor Bassianus (reigned 211–217) that he became known as Caracalla. The garment was widely worn by the clergy as early as the 5th century, and it traditionally has 33 buttons down the front to symbolize the 33 years of Christ’s life. The pope always wears a white cassock and lesser clergy wear black, but the colors of the cassocks of bishops and cardinals can vary with liturgical season and whether the garment is being worn as ordinary dress or under other vestments. For ordinary dress, cardinals often wear a black cassock with scarlet borders, piping, and buttons or a solid scarlet cassock.
The ordinary cassock of cardinals and the pope is belted in the middle with a wide length of fabric called the fascia (sash), which is white for the pope and scarlet for the cardinals. Some popes have opted for the papal crest to be embroidered at the end of this scarf-like belt, although Pope Francis typically used one adorned with only a fringe. The cassock is often topped with a short, same-colored shoulder cape called a pellegrina or with a mozzetta, a slightly longer red cape that often features 9 or 10 buttons. For outerwear in cold weather, the pope has traditionally donned an ermine-lined mozzetta, though Pope Francis wore a simple white peacoat. The pope also traditionally wears red shoes to honor Christian martyrs; Pope Francis wore black loafers. For formal occasions, cardinals may wear a long scarlet cape of watered silk called a ferraiolo.
The pope and the cardinals also wear a zucchetto skullcap: white for the pope, red for the cardinals. The zucchetto has probably been worn by ecclesiastics since the 13th century and was likely originally used to cover the tonsured (shaved) heads of clergy in cold churches. The zucchetto can, in turn, be covered with a cappello romano, which is a round, broad-brimmed, low-crowned hat, though this has largely fallen out of vogue. The cappello romano of the pope is red, whereas cardinals wear black with a scarlet lining and red and gold cords.
A large pectoral cross is worn down the front of ordinary and choir dress. The cross may be ornate or simple, depending on the wearer’s tastes and the occasion. Cardinals wear a signet ring unique to each man, and the pope wears the Fisherman’s Ring as a symbol of his episcopal authority.
Choir and liturgical dress
The cassock is worn underneath the garments used in choir and liturgical dress. In choir dress, the cassock is partially covered by the typically knee-length surplice or rochet, both of which are white and long-sleeved and may feature ornate lace. Cardinals and the pope may also wear a red mozzetta cape over this ensemble. Depending on the occasion, a long silk stole is worn around the neck and draped vertically down the front. The stole is a symbol of pastoral authority and immortality, and its color is determined by the liturgical season and/or rank of the wearer.
Choir dress is accompanied by a zucchetto. Bishops, including cardinals, archbishops, and the pope, may wear a zucchetto during mass but must remove it during the liturgy of the Eucharist. Cardinals may also wear a biretta—a square hat with four rounded ridges—over the zucchetto during certain processions or while giving absolution. The biretta draws attention to the moments in which it is removed, such as when standing near the altar, during the procession of the Eucharist, or whenever the name of Jesus is spoken.
For liturgical dress, the cassock is covered with a full-length alb. A symbol of purity, the alb is a white linen tunic secured at the waist by a cord or belt called a cincture, and it may or may not have a decorative hem. The alb is topped with the chasuble, a conical or bell-shaped cloak with an opening for the head. The chasuble is the outermost garment worn during the celebration of mass, and its color and ornamentation depend on the liturgical season or occasion.
The pope and certain archbishops and bishops wear a distinctive white pallium over the chasuble as a symbol of full episcopal authority. It is made of a circular strip of lamb’s wool about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and is placed over the shoulders. Six crosses, one each on the chest and back and on each shoulder and band, adorn the vestment.
The cope is an elegant vestment worn by all ranks of the clergy at non-eucharistic functions in which the chasuble is not worn, such as during processions, blessings, and burials. It is a full-length cloak—usually made of silk or other rich material in various colors—formed from a semicircular piece of cloth with a hood. Unlike the similar chasuble, the cope is open at the front and is fastened by hooks or a brooch.
A constant of all three forms of dress, the zucchetto can be worn on its own or under the distinctive miter for liturgical dress. The use of the miter, one of the most conspicuous of the episcopal insignia, is limited to the pope, cardinals, and bishops. It is formed of two shield-shaped stiffened halves that face the front and back, and two fringed streamers, called lappets, hang from the back. The headdress may be simple or more adorned, depending on the event. Much like a crown, the miter represents authority and wisdom.
The crosier is sometimes carried by bishops (including archbishops and cardinals) as a sign of their ecclesiastical office. A curved staff that echoes a shepherd’s staff, the crosier is made of metal or carved wood and is often very ornate. The papal equivalent is the ferula, which features a crucifix on the top. Both the crosier and the ferula are meant to symbolize pastoral care, guiding and protecting the faithful like Christ the good shepherd (Gospel According to John 10:11–18).