kaiseki

kaiseki, traditional Japanese cuisine that consists of a multicourse meal prepared with seasonal ingredients and that is generally served on special occasions.

The term kaiseki can refer to one of two types of meals, depending on the kanji characters used in its spelling. Kaiseki (懐石), also known as cha-kaiseki, is a light meal meant to fill the stomach before a tea ceremony. The kanji characters translate roughly to “stones in the robe” and refer to warm stones that Buddhist monks would fold into their robes to stay warm and to keep hunger at bay when fasting. Kaiseki (会席), also known as kaiseki-ryori, is an elaborate meal accompanied by sake and ending with tea. The kanji characters translate roughly to “social gathering with seating” and refer to a formal occasion. The term kaiseki, in its modern use, generally refers to the more contemporary, elaborate cuisine.

The origins of kaiseki are linked to the history of tea in Japan. During the Heian period (794–1185), monks traveled to China to study Zen Buddhism during the Tang dynasty and returned with knowledge about tea. The emperor’s court praised the qualities and elegance of tea, and tea drinking became popular among the court’s aristocracy and in its religious ceremonies. Tea ceremonies evolved over time and in the 16th century began to include a simple meal.

Kaiseki courses and dishes

Kaiseki meals traditionally consist of multiple courses, with the precise number depending on the seasonal availability of ingredients and the chef’s preferences.

• Sakizuke: An appetizer course that introduces the chef’s style. It usually features pickled foods and is served with sake.
• Hassun: A course that represents the current season’s flavors and ingredients, establishing the seasonal theme of the meal.
• Suimono: A soup course made with dashi broth and meant to cleanse the palate. This dish showcases the chef’s skill, as creating a clear, simple, yet flavorful soup is exceptionally challenging.
• Mukozuke: A sashimi course featuring premium seasonal fish served with dipping sauces.
• Yakimono: A grilled course of fish, chicken, pork, or other proteins.
• Takiawase: A simmered dish of vegetables mixed with meat, fish, or tofu.
• Shokuji: A rice dish, often cooked in a clay hot pot, served with miso soup and accompanied by pickles.
• Agemono: A deep-fried course commonly featuring tempura-battered seafood, fish, meats, and vegetables, accompanied by dipping sauces.
• Shiizakana: A small savory or salty dish of the chef’s choice that balances out the milder dishes and is meant to be enjoyed with sake.
• Mizumono: A dessert platter featuring a variety of sweets, often including fruits, confections, ice cream, and cake.

Kaiseki table etiquette

The refined form of kaiseki dining requires showing respect and consideration to others. Examples of some basic formalities include the host thanking the chef prior to the meal by saying, “arigato gozaimashita” (“thank you”), and the host signaling to the guests that it is time to begin eating by saying, “itadakimasu” (“I receive this meal”) and nodding. The host begins eating first, followed by the guest of honor, followed by the remainder of guests. The oshibori (hand towel) should be used only to wipe hands, never the face. It should be folded neatly after use, with the soiled side in, and placed back on the towel tray. Chopsticks are used only to pick up food, never to poke food or cut it into smaller pieces; they are placed on the hashi-oki (chopstick rest) when not in use. After eating, the chopsticks are placed in a horizontal position, with the eating ends facing left. At the end of the meal, the host thanks the chef by saying, “gochisosama deshita” (“thank you for the meal”).